Ectoin protects the skin barrier and helps keep skin moisturized, so it works well with other nourishing ingredients like ceramides and fatty acids.
Kara Birnbaum / NBC News
To find out what makes a good skin care formula with ectoin, I interviewed three board-certified dermatologists, who shared what to look for. The exact attributes might depend on your individual skin types and concerns, so here’s what I kept in mind when curating this last, based on their gudiance:
Other ingredients: Ectoin works best alongside other ingredients. It can complement retinoids, such as retinol and retinal, and can work well to moisturize skin alongside ceramides, fatty acids and other lipids. Experts say that antioxidants can also complement its protective effects.
Protective formulations: Since ectoin is a protective ingredient, it works best in a formula that remains on skin, like a serum or a moisturizer, versus one you rinse off (like a mask or cleanser). Those properties also make it a natural addition to sunscreen.
Other key ingredients:copper peptide, squalane | Fragrance-free:yes
What we like
Works quickly
Suits all skin types
Lightweight
Something to note
Nothing to note
This face serum sets out to plump and hydrate skin because of its combination of copper peptides, squalane and ectoin. “Copper peptides boost collagen and elastin production, enhancing firmness and elasticity, while ectoin defends against environmental stress,” says New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Arash Akhavan. (Squalane is great for all skin types since it hydrates skin without clogging pores.). It’s for these reasons that Dr. Gloria Lin, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY, recommends this formula for those experiencing signs of aging, especially if they can’t tolerate retinoids.
“I used this for a few months last winter because of how dry my skin gets and it was so helpful,” says NBC Select editorial operations associate Jem Alabi. “I would put it on before my moisturizer and it was always light and left my skin feeling supple. A little goes a long way with this product and it lasted me a long time. The blue hue is a plus (I just think it’s cute) and my face was definitely plumper and radiant despite the cold season.”
Other key ingredients:peptides, exosomes, arnica, allantoin | Fragrance-free:yes
What we like
Safe for sensitive skin
Absorbs quickly
Doesn’t pill
Something to note
Small size
Turegano likes this serum for a few reasons: It “accelerates skin recovery for skin that needs soothing, helps even complexion and helps with improving collagen and elasticity,” she says. (In other words, it targets multiple signs of aging, including dark spots, dryness and wrinkles.) It has both peptides and copper tripeptides to support skin repair, according to the brand. And for those with sensitive skin or who can’t use retinoids, it can be “an excellent product for those looking for a retinol alternative,” according to Lin.
Other key ingredients:peptides, exosomes, arnica, allantoin | Fragrance-free:yes
What we like
Reduces redness
Unscented
Safe for sensitive skin
Something to note
Pills a bit
Intended to either supplement or replace a retinol, this thick, balm-like formula pairs ectoin with arnica and allantoin, both of which are known for their soothing abilities. It also has growth-factor peptides and exosomes to help with collagen and skin firming, according to Turegano. Lin also likes that it pairs those ingredients with lipids, such as ceramides, which help with skin hydration. While it might be hydrating enough for normal to oily skin, the brand recommends also using an actual moisturizer for dry or very dry skin types.
“This is everything I want in a serum,” says NBC Select updates editor Mili Godio. “It’s lightweight and silky, blends in easily and has no fragrance that irritates my sensitive skin. It makes my skin feel so soft and adds a much needed amount of moisture to my dry skin (especially paired with my favorite night cream).”
Our experts told us that ectoin’s defensive abilities make it a good addition to sunscreen. In Supergoop’s Protec(tint) Daily SPF Tint SPF 50, it works alongside hyaluronic acid and bentonite clay to keep skin calm, hydrated, and non-greasy, according to our experts — and it didn’t set off our tester’s sensitive skin. The tinted formula uses both chemical and mineral filters for broad-spectrum protection, and it’s buildable, so you can customize your level of coverage, according to our tester.
Other key ingredients:ceramides, olive oil | Fragrance-free:no
What we like
Very nourishing
Buttery texture
Something to note
Slightly tacky feel
Lin considers this cream a great option for very dry skin types. In addition to the ectoin, it also has ceramides that help support the skin barrier, plus shea butter and hyaluronic acid. Its rich, thick texture can take a little more time to sink in than the average moisturizer, so it might be best used in the winter or as part of your nighttime routine.
Other key ingredients:coenzyme Q10, purple algae, alpine rose extract, hollyhock flower extract | Fragrance-free:no
What we like
Balances the microbiome
Reduces redness
Vegan
Something to note
Has alcohol in it
If you’re exposed to environmental stressors like sun exposure and pollution — or simply want to calm your skin — Akhavan recommends this serum. The ectoin minimizes irritation and protects the skin barrier, he says, plus, he likes that it has coenzyme Q10, an antioxidant naturally found in the body, and purple algae extract, which give skin added protection.
Other key ingredients:polyglutamic acid, glycerin, osmolytes | Fragrance-free:yes
What we like
Affordable
Non-sticky
Safe for sensitive skin
Something to note
Not irritating
Lin considers this gentle, lightweight serum a good option for most people since it has polyglutamic acid and 10% glycerin that, along with the ectoin, can plump and hydrate the skin, she says. (Rather than exfoliating skin like other types of acids, polyglutamic acid is a peptide that moisturizes.) You can use it morning and night, plus since the bottle is only 1.7 ounces it’s travel friendly and TSA-approved.
When you’re looking for skin-care products with ectoin, our experts recommend looking for formulations that pair it with complementary ingredients. These may include ceramides, panthenol and niacinamide, which help support skin-barrier repair, or antioxidants like vitamin C for additional protection against environmental stress, says Akhavan. Another good pairing for the star ingredient is a humectant like glycerin or polyglutamic acid to boost hydration, according to Turegano.
Then, factor in the formula. Ectoin works best in serums, moisturizers and gentle sunscreens, where it can “provide a protective shield and hydration without causing irritation,” says Akhavan. It also works well in barrier creams for added environmental protection, and in post-procedure skin care to aid recovery from treatments like lasers or peels, according to Turegano.
What doesn’t matter quite as much is the concentration, as “it is not clear what percentage of ectoin is required in skin care products to achieve meaningful results,” says Lin. “It might be challenging to determine the exact amount that a product contains because it is often not labeled — so it can vary significantly between brands and product lines.” For that reason, she says, if you have very dry skin, then you might want to make sure that a given skin-care product with ectoin has other hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
Also, Lin says, “it is important to note that many of these products are not meant as a standalone, but rather in addition to your regular moisturizer, since the ectoin can help enhance the effects of these products.”
Frequently asked questions
Ectoin was discovered in 1985 in certain types of bacteria that thrive in salt-rich lakes, according to Lin. “It is a type of short-chain amino acid called an ‘extremolyte’ that is intended to help cells survive under extreme environmental conditions,” she says. “This protective measure helps the bacteria to survive in harsh climates like the Dead Sea.”
In your skin, ectoin binds to water, forming molecular complexes that shield skin from environmental stressors like UV rays, pollutants, and extreme temperature fluctuations — which significantly improves skin’s barrier function, according to Akhavan. However, keep in mind that the ingredient isn’t as well studied as other ingredients like retinols, hyaluronic acid and peptides.
Ectoin is very good for skin, especially in terms of supporting the skin barrier and providing hydration. “Ectoin helps to stabilize cell membranes, which allows the skin cells to retain water more effectively,” says Turegano. As for the skin barrier, it creates a protective layer over the surface of the skin, which reduces trans-epidermal water loss — the natural evaporation of water from the skin — and locking in moisture. “It may even enhance the effects of other moisturizers through this barrier effect to further hydrate and nourish the skin,” says Lin.
Ectoin also has the ability to calm inflammation, making it a good ingredient if you have irritation or sensitive skin. “It can calm things like redness, dryness or chafed skin,” says Turegano.
That property might also make ectoin beneficial for people who use powerful actives in their routine. In fact, ectoin might also help with tolerability with other products, like retinols, which are particularly popular but can be challenging to use due to dryness and irritation, according to Lin. (How it works: One study found that it actually dials down the inflammation associated with retinoids.)
Finally, its protective nature can also prevent cellular damage, which can give it anti-aging benefits — helping to prevent or minimize the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
It depends on the context, but in many ways, yes: ectoin is better than hyaluronic acid, since it stabilizes moisture rather than just pulling in water (as humectants like hyaluronic acid do). “Ectoin does offer some advantages over hyaluronic acid when it comes to hydration and barrier protection,” says Turegano, who favors the former for people living in harsh weather environments — like extremely cold or dry weather — or for those who have a weakened skin barrier. “I personally prefer it and think it functions better.”
Akhavan largely agrees. “Hyaluronic acid binds more water than ectoin, and is therefore technically more hydrating,” he says. “But ectoin may offer additional benefits, including its ability to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss through that mechanism.”
Everyone can use an ectoin in their skin care, but it’s especially helpful if you have sensitive skin or are dealing with dryness or a weakened skin barrier. “In fact, it may specifically benefit people with that skin type since it will promote hydration and form a protective barrier,” says Lin. It’s also ideal for skin conditions like rosacea or eczema.
It’s also worth using if you’re regularly exposed to environmental stressors like UV rays, pollution, and extreme temperatures. That’s because “ectoin acts as a protective shield against oxidative stress — perfect for frequent travelers or city dwellers,” says Turegano.
Since it helps maintain elasticity and reduce inflammation, it’s also an effective strategy for those with mature skin, says Turegano. And then there’s the fact that it can make potent ingredients like retinol more tolerable — making it easier for more people to use long-term, whatever your skin type.
Dr. Gloria Lin, FAAD, is dermatologist with the Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. She has special interests in the treatment of skin cancer, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis among others.
Dr. Arash Akhavan, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of The Dermatology & Laser Group in New York, NY. He’s also a professor at the Mount Sinai Medical Center and specializes in cosmetic procedures as well as treatment of skin cancer, acne and rosacea.
Dr. Mamina Turegano, FAAD, is a triple board-certified dermatologist, internist, and dermatopathologist in Louisiana.
I’m a freelance beauty writer and editor who’s been covering beauty and health for more than a decade, including topics like retinol body lotions and urea skin care. For this article, I spoke to three dermatologists about the trending ingredient, plus highlighted their recommendations for the best options.
