According to experts, hyperpigmentation is more common in darker skin tones due to naturally higher amounts of melanin cells.Paula's Choice; Faded; Hyper
What we like
Foams well
Good for sensitive skin
Something to note
Not suitable for drier skin
Mitchell likes this cleanser from La Roche-Posay because it “contains exfoliating agents that help to brighten skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots over time.” It uses lipo-hydroxy acid (LHA), a derivative of salicylic acid, to exfoliate the skin and glycerin, a humectant, to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier. The cleanser also has a cream to foam formula that cleanses without stripping the skin, and is suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin, according to the brand.
To treat hyperpigmentation or keep it at bay, Mitchell says keeping the skin moisturized and maintaining a healthy skin barrier are key. Cerave makes some of our staff’s favorite cleansers (including the one I use in my daily routine), and Mitchell suggests this option for gently yet effectively removing dirt and oil from your face. The cleanser’s cream-to-foam formula transforms once lathered with water, and its ceramides- and hyaluronic acid-infused formula helps to lock in hydration, according to the brand.
This exfoliant from Paula’s Choice has been a key part of my daily routine for years — it keeps my oily skin from getting greasy during the day, and helps to prevent breakouts. Mitchell says that it’s “ideal for hyperpigmentation,” and is great for helping to fade dark spots, unclog pores, and even out skin tone. It uses salicylic acid to exfoliate and humectants and antioxidants to hydrate and protect the skin, which in turn helps boost the absorption and efficacy of the salicylic acid, according to the brand.
This brightening serum, which Mitchell recommends, is stacked with brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, and turmeric, according to the brand. The turmeric, along with salicylic acid, also acts as an anti-inflammatory agent that helps to heal and reduce breakouts. This serum is best applied to the entire face (not as a spot treatment), and should be followed up with moisturizer and sunscreen, according to the brand.
All three experts recommend this serum from La Roche-Posay, which Mitchell says contains glycolic acid, kojic acid, and thermal water “to help exfoliate and reduce pigmentation.” The serum is formulated to target hyperpigmentation from a range of different causes, including age spots, acne scars and sunspots, according to the brand. This makes it a great option for those looking to address multiple types of hyperpigmentation. It also has a non- comedogenic formula, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
This concentrated booster serum “helps fade dark spots, improve skin texture, and reduce discoloration by regulating melanin production,” says Mitchell. It has niacinamide to brighten the skin and boost your moisture barrier, and antioxidants like licorice root to soothe and protect skin from free radicals, like sunlight (UV rays) and air pollution. It also has a very light, liquid formula that can easily blend into your favorite moisturizer or serum.
I tried this serum with two of my colleagues — NBC Select associate reporter Bianca Alvarez and NBC Select commerce editor Lindsay Schneider — and loved the results. In three weeks, I saw improvement in scars that I’d had (and tried to treat) for over a month beforehand. This serum has a cream-like texture and uses kojic and azelaic acid to brighten the skin, along with niacinamide to help reduce oil production, which helps stop breakouts that may cause further hyperpigmentation. Check out our full review here.
This serum comes recommended by Mitchell for those looking to “improve firmness, and smooth the appearance of fine lines” along with addressing hyperpigmentation. She also likes its brightening formula, which has fruit extracts and vitamin C to target pigmentation and even skin tone, according to the brand. This serum can be used both in the morning and evening, and has an oil-free, non-drying texture.
This dark spot corrector from Cerave has glycolic and lactic acid to exfoliate skin and improve texture and discoloration, according to the brand. As with all Cerave products, it’s also formulated with essential ceramides to protect the skin’s moisture barrier. Mitchell suggests this treatment for daily use because of its gentle formula — it’s also non-comedogenic, fragrance free, and suitable for all skin types, according to Cerave.
Mitchell suggests this moisturizer, which she says is “excellent for dark skin prone to hyperpigmentation,” because it contains niacinamide and ceramides. These ingredients are great for calming inflammation and repairing the skin barrier, and can help to calm active breakouts that may lead to further dark spots. It’s also our favorite night cream for oily/acne-prone skin.
This gel-cream moisturizer has a lightweight texture yet still gives the hydration of a much thicker, heavier cream. Its thinner formula “hydrates the skin deeply without clogging pores, which helps prevent irritation that can lead to dark spots,” says Mitchell. It uses hyaluronic acid to help your skin retain water, and is also oil-free and noncomedogenic.
Henry suggests this sunscreen from EltaMD, which is also our pick for best overall sunscreen. NBC Select updates editor Mili Godio is a big fan of the formula, which she says is the only one that doesn’t irritate her sensitive skin. It uses niacinamide to help soothe inflammation and sodium hyaluronate to maintain hydration, according to the brand. The oil- and fragrance-free mineral formula is also great for rosacea and acne-prone skin because it doesn’t absorb into the skin, and is also noncomedogenic.
La Roche Posay’s Anthelios line has become a staple in my routine, and Mitchell recommends this sunscreen for “broad-spectrum protection with a lightweight, hydrating formula.” The sunscreen has an SPF of 100, making it great for sensitive skin that burns easily. It’s also unscented and oil-free, and contains antioxidants to protect the skin from free radicals, according to the brand.
According to Mitchell, this sunscreen is “ideal for daily use to prevent hyperpigmentation from worsening due to UV exposure.” It moisturizes skin without leaving a greasy feel, and has a formula that, when combined with its lightweight texture, makes it great for oily skin. This sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection and uses glycerin and hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, according to the brand.
The following ingredients help to treat hyperpigmentation in dark skin, according to experts:
Vitamin C: Mitchell recommends this antioxidant for its many functions, which includes “stimulating collagen production, brightening the skin, and fighting free radical damage caused by sun exposure. Like Kojic acid, it reduces hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin production,” she says.
Niacinamide: Niacinamide helps reduce inflammation, regulate melanin production, and improve the skin barrier by blocking the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes, according to Henry. Mitchell also says that it can be safely combined with other ingredients like retinoids and exfoliants.
Hydroquinone: According to Ugonabo, hydroquinone is a very potent skin lightener. However, it’s currently prescription-only, and Mitchell warns that “it should be used cautiously, and often under the guidance of a dermatologist due to potential side effects with long-term use.” She also cautions against using hydroquinone with benzoyl peroxide, which she says can stain the skin.
Retinoids: Mitchell calls retinoids “a go-to ingredient for hyperpigmentation.” According to her, they help inhibit melanogenesis (which is the process of melanin production) by encouraging cell turnover and reducing melanosome transfer, which brings “healthier, newer skin cells to the surface while exfoliating older, darker ones, helping to fade hyperpigmentation faster.” Retinoids also help prevent new spots from forming and allows for better penetration of other ingredients, she says. However, both Mitchell and Henry warn against using retinoids with strong acids, like glycolic or salicylic acids, since they can cause irritation when mixed at higher concentrations.
Arbutin: A natural derivative of hydroquinone derived from the bearberry plant, Mitchell says that arbutin helps to inhibit tyrosinase, which is an enzyme involved in melanin production. “It is potentially less irritating than hydroquinone but still effective,” she says.
Kojic Acid: According to Mitchell, kojic acid is a byproduct of the fermentation of certain species of fungi or yeast. She says that, similar to vitamin C, kojic acid also reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase enzymes, helping to lighten dark spots over time.
Azelaic Acid: This ingredient has anti-inflammatory properties and can suppress melanin production in the skin, according to Mitchell. She says that it “helps reduce hyperpigmentation, while being gentle enough for sensitive skin”.
Niacinamide: Niacinamide or vitamin B3, blocks the transfer of melanin to skin cells, according to Henry. This ingredient is generally considered safe for sensitive skin, and Mitchell says it is commonly used with vitamin C and kojic acid.
Cysteamine: This is a naturally-occurring ingredient found in highest concentration in human milk, says Mitchell. It’s a powerful antioxidant with multiple effects on melanogenesis, including working as a tyrosinase inhibitor and inhibitor of melanosome transfer.
Glycolic Acid: Mitchell says that glycolic acid can help to loosen the bonds in the top layer of the skin, which assists in improved product penetration.
Mandelic Acid: Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used in chemical peels, but it can also be found in over-the-counter cosmetics, and is especially useful in reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, according to Mitchell.
Tranexamic acid (TXA): This ingredient can be used as an oral or topical treatment by dermatologists, and helps to block the transfer of melanin to skin cells, according to Mitchell.
Dermatologists recommend avoiding harsh ingredients that may cause inflammation or irritation, which is especially common in people with darker skin who are more prone to PIH. They include:
Fragrance, harsh exfoliants, and alcohol-based products.
Aggressive overuse of certain ingredients for treating hyperpigmentation. For example, Mitchell says that overusing hydroquinone without breaks can lead to issues like ochronosis, which is a condition especially in darker skin tones where the skin turns to a dark, blue-black.
All three dermatologists emphasize the importance of sun protection in treating hyperpigmentation in dark skin. “The most important thing is strict sun protection with a broad-spectrum sunscreen,” says Ugonabo. She suggests incorporating products with an SPF of at least 30, such as sunscreen moisturizer or tinted sunscreens. She particularly likes tinted sunscreens, which she says contains iron oxides, an ingredient that’s been shown to give additional protection against light damage.
Frequently Asked Questions
How you prevent hyperpigmentation will depend on the root cause of it. “If it’s acne-related, you’ll want to treat that acne aggressively,” says Henry. “If hormonal, look at new regimens and ways to regulate those hormones.” Both her and Mitchell also emphasize the importance of using daily sun protection to prevent UV-induced hyperpigmentation or the progression of any existing hyperpigmentation. Additionally, Mitchell suggests avoiding picking at acne, bug bites or rashes, and seeking early treatment for any inflammation to avoid the forming of dark spots.
Henry and Mitchell agree that most hyperpigmentation products can be applied once or twice per day, depending on the product’s ingredients and formula. How often a product should be used will vary from product to product, according to the experts. For example, Ugonabo says that products like SPF should be applied everyday in the morning, while retinoids should be applied at night once per day at the most. “You want to be mindful to stick with the manufacturer’s recommendations and instructions,” says Henry.
All experts agree that the time it takes to treat hyperpigmentation can vary from person to person, depending on how severe the pigmentation is. “Patience is key,” says Mitchell. “Most products help show visible improvement within 8 to 12 weeks, though some stubborn cases may take longer,” she says. Ugonabo says she usually advises her patients to give their skin at least four to six weeks before deciding whether or not a product is working for their hyperpigmentation.
Though some hyperpigmentation treatments may be safe for sensitive skin, certain ingredients like retinoids or exfoliating acids may cause irritation if not gradually introduced to sensitive skin, says Mitchell. Henry says that it’s very important to seek out products formulated specifically for sensitive skin, or to consult a dermatologist if you’re unsure of which products would be best. Mitchell also suggests performing a patch test before fully incorporating a new product into your routine.
At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
Dr. Michelle Henry is a board-certified dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon and head of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery in NYC.
Dr. Hope Mitchell is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in hyperpigmentation and skin of color with over 20 years of experience, and lead of Mitchell Dermatology in Ohio
Dr. Nkem Ugonabo is a specialist in cosmetic dermatology at Union Derm in NYC.
I am an associate SEO reporter at NBC Select covering wellness and lifestyle who’s previously written stories on the best night creams, acne spot treatments, and more. To learn more about hyperpigmentation for dark skin, I spoke to three dermatologists to find out everything you need to know, including the best ingredients, product recommendations, and shopping guidance.
